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Growing Tulips in our Warmer Climate.

25/3/2018

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​TULIPS
Growing Tulips in our warmer climate
Yes, tulips do grow better in cooler climates but you can share the pleasure in warmer climates too!
Imagine a beautiful tub of colour to enjoy in late winter that will be the envy of all of your neighbours. It will probably not be possible for you to get flowers from the bulbs in the next year but the 2-3 weeks of pleasure that you obtain from these stunning flowers is well worthwhile


Just follow these simple steps:
1. Select your bulbs from the medium and tall growing bulbs, not the rockery types. The safest ones to grow are those marked for warm climates.
2. Do not take delivery of your tulips until at least March (this protects the bulbs from the worst of your summer heat)
3. Between mid-March and early April put the bulbs in the crisper of your fridge for 6-8 weeks until late May
4. Plant the bulbs in a large pot/tub with up to 10 bulbs for a 20 cm pot, 20 bulbs for a 30 cm pot, 35 bulbs for a 40 cm pot and up to 50 bulbs for a 50 cm pot. (You can under-plant with violas and reduce the number of tulips.) Use a good quality potting mix.
5. Place the tub in the coldest place in your garden, with absolutely no sun, until the shoots are about 5 cm high.
6. Move the tub to your preferred display position, full sun or shade, and enjoy the spectacle of the rapid growth and flowering of the tulips. \

For more information and tips join our Garden Corner

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7 secrets for success with Protea growing

7/10/2015

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Proteas
Proteas 
These delightful plants come in a range of sizes and colour.  Proteas are hardy and adaptable to most soil conditions and will thrive in your garden with a little extra care.  Most varieties prefer a nice sandy, open, acid soil with a ph below 6.


  1.  Plant in well-drained soil. – Firstly, condition the soil by digging in compost and gypsum.  This will break up any residual clay.
  2. Proteas love an open sunny position.  The more sun you give them, the more flowers they’ll give you.
  3. Once planted do not cultivate around the plant and pull out any weeds by hand.
  4. Mulch around the plant to protect the roots, use a natural mulch such as bark, leaves or sugarcane mulch.
  5.  Keep proteas well-watered  until they are established, during hot weather water daily.  Once established water frequency will depend on the prevailing conditions and variety.
  6. All proteas will handle light frost down to minus 2 degrees, while some varieties coping with frost right down to minus 6 degrees.
  7. Proteas need little feeding unless conditions are severe.  Only use a native osmocote or a low phosphorus fertilizer.
 
For more gardening information join Our Gardening Corner
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Ways to improve your soil

4/1/2015

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Soil conditioners
‘The answer lies in the soil’

Organic conditioners enhance soil texture and supply nutrients your plants need.

Many soil problems can be corrected by simply adding natural organic conditioners such as composted animal manures to well composted leaf matter.  This not only improves the soil drainage but also adds vital nutrients to maintain healthy plants.  The best time to condition the soil is before you plant in early spring which will ensure the new growth gets the best start.

Q.  How do I get water to penetrate my soil?  It is like powder and sheds the water.

A.  This particular type of soil is lacking in organic matter (humus) and can be improved by increasing the humus content of the soil.  As this soil is very dry begin by applying a liquid soil wetter, then cultivate your garden bed and thoroughly blend in organic matter such as well composted animal manures, mushroom compost along with dolomite lime.  Apply a second application of liquid soil wetter before planting. 

At time of planting add water crystals to the hole ensuring moisture stays at the root-ball, water crystals continue to be effective for up to 5 years.  Mulch around your plants with sugar cane mulch, this will assist in the soil retaining moisture and as it rots into the soil will add to the humus content of the garden bed.  The humus content will need to be renewed from time to time, especially in annual flower and vegetable beds which are continually cultivated.

Q.  My soil is very sandy, what can I do to retain more moisture and to improve my soil?

A.  Sandy soil consists of large air spaces between particles allowing good drainage but unfortunately does not hold moisture or nutrients well.  This can be improved by adding organic matter, mushroom compost and best of all, animal manures.  Green manure crops are also an excellent additive when dug into the soil.  Peat is also good for holding moisture in the soil, this should be moistened before adding to the soil.  The humus content of sandy soil will need to be renewed regularly.

Q.  I have clay soil which holds the moisture, what do you suggest I do to improve my soil?

A.  The particles of clay soils are tightly packed together therefore the drainage and aeration is poor.  Improve the soil by adding organic matter along with gypsum, this will help the soil to function more effectively turning the clay particles into crumbs.  Do not dig when too wet as the crumb structure of clay soil will be destroyed and do not dig so deeply as to bring subsoil to the surface.  Clay soil will benefit from regular applications of organic matter and gypsum.

For more gardening tips and information join Our Gardening Corner.


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Tips on planting and care of Tulips

1/6/2014

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Tulips


TULIPS
These beautiful, bell-shaped flowers make a dazzling display of colour in early spring.  In our warmer climate tulips will grow well in a position that receives half a day of full sun.  They like to be kept cool and moist but not too wet.  Tulips not only make a stunning display when mass planted but are also stunning in pots.



Tips on planting and care of tulips
*In warm climates winter chill the bulbs by placing them in a paper packet and chill in the crisper for 4-6 weeks         before planting.
*Thrive in a friable well-drained soil which has been prepared with plenty of organic compost and an application of     complete fertilizer.
*Tulips do not like acid soil therefore it is best to add an application of lime before planting. 
*Plant bulbs approximately 10-15cm deep and 15cm apart.
*After planting water well and once leaves appear, water regularly to keep soil moist but not too wet.
*Feed with a liquid plant food when the first growth appears and then again when flower buds appear.
*Lift and store bulbs each year after the foliage turns yellow.

*Tips when planting in pots –
*Plant bulbs closely together but not touching. 
*The flat side of the tulip bulb should be faced to the outside of the pot.  The first leaf will grow in that direction and   therefore will not congest the centre of the pot. 
*Plant so that the tips of the bulbs are just under the soil surface. 
*In our warm climates these bulbs are best discarded as they will not reflower in pots the following year.

For more gardening tips and information join Our Gardening Corner


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Tips on Planting and Care of Freesias

18/5/2014

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Freesias


Freesias
An easy to grow autumn planting bulb that brings a delightful fragrance and show to the spring garden.  Once planted they can be left undisturbed for several years.  Freesias will grow in semi-shade but do best in an open sunny position.   Freesias make a stunning show well mass planted and are particularly attractive grown in clumps or in rockery pockets.  Excellent for cut flowers too.


Tips on planting and care of freesias
*Freesias grow best in an open sunny position but also grow well under shrubs and trees. 
*Thrive in a friable well-drained soil with an application of complete fertilizer worked into the soil before planting.       Another application each spring and autumn will maintain vigorous healthy growth.
*Plant bulbs at a depth that is equal to twice the length of the bulb and approximately 8cm apart.
*Water well at planting and then weekly during growth and flowering.  Stop watering once the plant starts to die       down.
*Apply blood and bone or another slow release fertilizer after the blubs have shot and regularly feed with Manutec     Bloom Booster or Miracle Gro Flowers & Bloom Food until the flowering season has past.  
*Bulbs can be lifted once the foliage has died down completely.  Store in a cool, dry position.

For more gardening tips and information join Our Gardening Corner

 


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Tips on Planting and Care of Bulbs

28/4/2014

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Freesias
Bulbs give a delightful show in the garden when planted in clumps and add that special effect when grown in containers.  Some bulbs make an attractive effect when mass planted and as borders.  With the many different varieties of bulbs available a colourful display can be had from late winter to summer/early autumn.  Jonquils and lachenalias appear in late winter followed by daffodils, anemones and ranunculus.  Spring brings hyacinths, blue bells, crocus, freesias, sparaxis and tulips.  During summer calla lilies, hippeastrums and gladiolus give a brilliant display of colour. 


Many spring flowering bulbs, such as tulips, require chilling in the autumn to help stimulate their flower growth the following spring.  To ensure blooming, place the bulbs in a brown paper bag in the crisper section of the refrigerator for approximately 6 to 8 weeks prior to planting out in the garden.  They should be planted out in late autumn.


General tips on bulb planting and care
* Select a well-drained position prepared with plenty of organic compost.
* Apply an application of Richgro Complete Plant Food to the soil before planting.
* Dig a hole for each bulb to a depth twice to three times the length of the bulb, for daffodils it’s about 8cm. (A            general rule only)
* Place bulb in hole with the growth point facing upwards and backfill each hole with soil, insert a marker for              position of bulb
* Apply an application of slow release fertilizer at planting.
* After the flower buds have appeared, regularly feed with Bloom Booster or Miracle Gro Flowers & Bloom Food.
* In pots, use a bulb planting mix and feed fortnightly with a liquid organic fertilizer once the flower buds appear.
* If intending to lift the bulbs, do so soon after foliage has died down.  This allows nutrients to return to the bulb for    future use.

The above is a general recommendation only, not all bulbs require the same treatment.  Each variety needs to be understood for its characteristics and what it likes best.

For more gardening tips and information join Our Gardening Corner.


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8 Tips on seed raising

6/1/2014

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seed raising
Your favourite flowers and veggies can easily be grown from seed and it brings an amazing sense of achievement when  the first green shoots break the soil surface.  There are many seeds that can be sown direct into the garden bed, most plants recommended for direct sowing usually have larger seeds.  Other seeds are best raised in seed beds, boxes, punnets or pots where you have better control over the temperature, light, watering and nutrients, which improves their germination rate.


 Tips for raising seedlings

*Use a good quality seed raising mix or make your own using one part course river sand, one part vermiculite or peatmoss and one part garden soil.  Ensure the mix is open, well drained and friable.  The mix should absorb moisture quickly and then drain freely within a few seconds, if it doesn’t add a little more course river sand.

*Choose a protected spot to raise seedlings.  If in an open seed bed, position a frame over the bed and cover with a light shade cloth.  Use the fame for protecting the young seedlings during the hottest part of the day and in heavy rain.  Don’t keep the seedlings covered all the time otherwise they will become soft and lanky.

*Seedlings raised in containers can be moved to give seedlings the required amount of shade or sunlight.  They can be kept indoors to provide a higher and more even degree of temperature, moving them outside once the seedlings have emerged.

*Before sowing treat the seeds with a fungicidal dust by adding a small amount of dust to the seeds in the packet, fold down the top and shake well for a few seconds, coating each seed with fungicide.  Use any fungicide dust such as copper oxychloride, rose or tomato dust.  This will protect seedlings against soil-borne diseases such as ‘damping off’.   Do not use cabbage dust as this is an insecticide not a fungicide.

*Use good quality seed raising mix to cover the seeds, and lightly mulch the beds, this will help soil to retain moisture and prevent the soil surface from caking. When seedlings have emerged, water more thoroughly and less frequently to encourage deep rooting.  Generally most seeds must be kept damp but not wet, until the seedlings emerge through the soil surface.  This is very important for seeds which may take 3-4 weeks to emerge.  If soil is too moist, seeds may rot away before they germinate.

*For extra warmth, especially during winter, cover seed beds or trays with a clear plastic cover out of direct sunlight.  Once the seedlings have emerged remove the cover. 

*Snails and slugs love young seedlings, scatter Blitzem or snail pellets over the bed a day or two after you sow the seed.  Repeat again when seedlings have emerged and also after heavy rain.

*When transplanting your seedlings into the garden, water the plant with an application of seaweed.  This will assist the plants to overcome transplant shock and promote healthy growth of your plants.

For more gardening tips on care of plants join Our Gardening Corner.


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7 Hardy annuals that create a show in summer

3/12/2013

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Summer Annuals
As the summer heat intensifies the delightful spring blooms begin to fade.  Add a few bright spots to the garden or patio with annuals that are at their best during summer.  Prepare the soil by adding plenty of organic compost, this not only improves the soil structure and moisture retention but also adds vital nutrients to maintain healthy plants.  Water regularly with Thrive or Miracle-Gro every 14 days.  Regularly remove any spent blooms to encourage new growth and enjoy a longer lasting display of cheerful colour during summer.


Alyssum
Showy hardy annual bearing masses of long lasting flowers available in shades of pink, mauve and white.  Suitable for a sunny or part shaded position.  Ideal for borders, rockeries or container growing.

Celosia
A vibrant annual  producing feathery plumes in brilliant shades of red, yellow, scarlet and orange.  Once established these heat-loving plants are drought tolerant and perfect for brightening up the summer garden.  Select a sunny well drained position.  Ideal for creating massed display of colour in the garden and for container growing.  Apply the water to the base of plant to avoid fungal disease.

Dahlias
Dahlias produce a long lasting display of bold and bright blooms in a wide range of colours.  Ideal in a sunny well drained position.  Ideal for mass planting, containers and borders, regularly remove spent blooms.  These perennial plants can continue performing for years by cutting plants to the ground after the foliage has died in late autumn.  The tubers may be left in the ground in warmer areas if soil is well drained.

Dianthus
Create an excellent display with these sweetly scented fringed flowers which come in shades of pink, red, mauve and white.  Thrive in any sunny position.  Ideal for adding colour to the summer garden, borders and rockeries.  Trim off the spent blooms to encourage regrowth and more blooms.

Marigolds
A hardy annual that can be grown all year round in frost free regions. Marigolds make an impressive show with their double heads of blooms that range in colour from pale lemon to deep gold.  Thrive in a sunny well drained position in the garden.  Ideal for container growing and as borders in the vegie patch, helping deter insect pests.  Remove spent flowers to encourage more blooms.

Petunias
A showy colourful annual creating a brilliant display wherever it’s planted.  Thrives in a sunny well drained soil enriched with organic compost.  Available in a variety of colours with magnificent single, double or frilled blooms.  Ideal for mass planting, borders, troughs, tubs and hanging baskets.

Vinca
A brilliant little annual often known as ‘Periwinkles’, it makes a delightful display of colour in gardens, borders, containers and rockeries.  Thrives in a sunny or part shaded position.  Vincas come in shades of soft pink, white, carmine-pink and deep rose.  Trim back after flowering to encourage regrowth.

For more tips and hints visit our website www.kingaroygardencentre.com.au or call in and visit our nursery.


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How to encourage orchids to flower

9/11/2013

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Dancing Lady Orchid
Q.  My Orchid has not flowered since I bought it.  How can I make my orchid flower?

A.  Winter is the main season for orchids.  After flowering remove dead flower spikes from the orchid and start your fertilizing program.   Between now and the end of the year feed with Manutec Orchid Food.  From January apply Manutec Orchid Bloom Booster weekly to promote flowering.  Alternatively, use Campbell’s blue orchid fertilizer ‘B’ from September to end of December followed by Campbell’s yellow orchid fertilizer ‘A’ until after flowering, applying every 7-14 days.

Orchids are one of the most beautiful  blooms leaving us feel they must be tricky to grow.  Really, they are one of the toughest plants and thrive on adversity.  Leave them to grow in a shady spot and bring them inside when in flower and enjoy their beauty.  Most orchids do best in warm, subtropical, tropical conditions and would need bushhouse conditions in cold districts.

6 Tips for growing Orchids

*  Spring and summer is the best time to divide and repot your orchids.  Divide the orchid when it has filled its pot.

*  Orchids don’t grow in ordinary soil.  Use an orchid mix that is specially formulated for their particular needs.

*  Don’t pot the bulbs too deep, they should be sitting just above the soil surface.

*  Cymbidium orchids require good drainage.  Use squat pots for orchids, place pots on small blocks to allow good       air flow around the roots.

*  Water orchids regularly through the hot months.  Allow your orchids to dry out between waterings in the cooler       months.


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Is your garden lacking bees?  10 Plants that keep the buzz in your garden

27/9/2013

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Bee collecting pollen from dahlias
The buzz of bees hovering over flowers is more than just music to the ears.  Bees along with other pollinators such as butterflies play an important part in the garden, for without them many of your fruit and vegetables would never get to maturity.   Vegetables such as zucchini, cucumbers and pumpkin have separate male and female flowers and unless the pollen gets carried from the male to the female flower there is no way fruit will develop on these plants.  Plant flowers that attract bees, near your fruit or in the veggie patch.  They’ll happily pollinate both your fruit and veggies and your garden will be a buzz.  

Plants that not only attract bees but can also act as deterrents to garden pests.

Basil is an annual herb that thrives in the warmer season and repels asparagus beetles and flies.  Basil is a good companion for asparagus, tomatoes and most vegetables.  Basil produces sprays of bee attracting flowers in late summer and autumn.

Borage is a delightful herb with pretty blue flowers that are very attractive bees.  Borage is an excellent provider of organic potassium, calcium and other natural minerals.  Borage leaves have the taste of cucumber and makes a delicious, healthy drink.  Grown as a border for strawberry beds, borage will ward off disease and produce bigger and better tasting fruit.

Coriander is a tall annual herb resembling parsley.  It has a reputation for repelling aphids and is a good companion to anise, dill and chervil.  Growing these herbs in rows between carrots and cabbages will protect them from these pests.  When in blossom coriander is attractive to bees.

Dill is good to grow with fennel and coriander.  Carrots and tomatoes benefit from having it close by as it repels pests but it should be pulled out before it flowers.  If left to mature it can greatly reduce that crop.   Bees are attracted to its flowers and it’s a good companion to cabbage improving its growth and health.

Lavender attracts bees which will benefit every garden.  A bowl of dried lavender in the room gives a clean background fragrance and moths hate it.  Where lavender is grown very few ticks are found and it is also effective as a mouse repellent. 

Lemon Balm often referred to as the ‘Bee Herb’ is famous for its delightful lemon scented leaves.  Useful for making tea to calm the nervous system and stimulate the heart, it makes a refreshing, delicious drink for hot weather and as a relaxing tea may dispel headaches and migraines.  Ideal as a border for the veggie patch, though unfortunately can be untidy.

Nasturtiums (orange coloured) in the veggie garden will repel aphids and are particularly good for giving radish a good hot taste.  They also keep away the cucumber beetle.  Nasturtiums are known to control the spread of woolly aphids when grown under apple trees.  Grown in a greenhouse, nasturtiums will protect plants against white-fly.  Both the bee-attracting flowers and the leaves are edible.

Phacelia’s fascinating lilac-blue flowerheads are renowned  for attracting beneficial garden insects such as bees and hoverflies.  These improve pollination and provide natural pest control.  Plant this hardy annual in drifts or dotted amongst other plants.

Sage was originally used medicinally in stuffing and meats to make them more digestible.  We have now grown to like the flavour and do not realize we are taking a herbal remedy.  Sage protects carrots against carrot-fly and cabbages against the cabbage moth, making the cabbage plants more succulent and tasty.  Sage is a good companion with rosemary but do not plant near cucumbers or rue.  Sage is also good for attracting bees.  .

Salvia (Summer Lavender) Beautiful compact plants, bearing an abundance of flower spikes with contrasting soft green foliage.  Most impressive if mass planted.  Flowers attract bees, especially the blue flowering variety.


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    Author

    Kingaroy is located in the hub of the South Burnett, a very fertile region noted for growing peanuts, often referred to as The Peanut Capital of Australia.

    Kingaroy Garden Centre established since 1976  Our extensive range of quality plants includes shrubs, natives and trees for both the small and large gardens. We have assisted many a happy gardener select from our large range of fruit and citrus trees, ornamental trees, pots and gardening products.  Our horticultural gurus are experienced and happy to help identify plants, pest and diseases.
     

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    98 Kingaroy Street    Kingaroy    4610
                Phone   (07) 4162 2612
Email:  sales@kingaroygardencentre.com.au